Big Sky Vacation Day 8: Walk on the wildside


Today’s adventure was going to be Many Glacier area of the park.  We had breakfast and headed up my favorite road to just north of St. Mary’s.  Many Glacier contains some of the last remaining glaciers in the park.  There are three or four good glaciers still there.  With the past winter just being over by a few days, the glacier viewing was going to be spectacular.

We drove through the town of Babb and we had to recount the story of the little restaurant there where we had breakfast on our first visit in 2003.  The restaurant was owned and run by a group of college kids who used as their way to make money.  Their spare time was spent hiking and hanging out in Glacier National Park.  Seemed like a fair trade.  The food was wonderful.  It was the first time I had heard about a hurricane party.  They explained it to us during our visit with them.

We arrived at Many Glacier Lodge and parked in the visitor parking.  From here, you have to walk over a small rise that tested the strength of your calves coming and going.  This lodge was built in early 1900s by the railroad to promote sightseeing in the U.S.  It is a wonderful use of local materials and makes a wonderful backdrop for our visit.

We went inside and looked around a bit.  Then it was on to the boat dock to check out the times for the boat rides across the lakes.  We arrived too late for the 11:00, but there were openings for the 1:00.  We paid for our tickets and worked on what to do with the hour and an half until it left the dock.

Zerah and Sean took the boys to the nearby ranger station to complete Zane’s induction as a Junior Ranger.  This meant that he had to turn in his completed manual and take his oath as a ranger.  We arranged to meet them in the parking lot at 12:30 for lunch before the boat and hiking.

Zane looked really spiffy wit that new badge pinned to his chest.  He was so excited about having said his oath and finalizing his rangership.  He also got a stuffed bear for his visit.  He named it Stevie, after his cousin.

After lunch, we walked back over the rise, with aching calves, and meet up at the boat dock.  It was getting close to time and we could see the boat returning from across the water on the other side of Swiftcurrent Lake.  It arrived on time and disembarked the passengers.  Then it was our turn to board Chief Two Guns, as the boat was named.  Zerah couldn’t find her ticket for boarding.  A quick check at the office and the clerk assured us the family would have no trouble getting on board.  And they didn’t.  We settled in for the ride across the lake and to Lake Josephine.

As the boat is travelling up the lake, the captain gives a tour and describes what you are looking or should be looking at in the mountains, falls, and other features in Swiftcurrent Lake.  For one thing, the water is a beautiful turquoise green.  This color comes from the minerals running from the glaciers up above.  It is one of the most beautiful colors.

After getting safely to the other side, we walked up a really steep hill to get to the other lake and board the Morning Star in Lake Josephine.  We travel the length of Lake Josephine to our destination on the other side.  The captain, who is a young lady named Jenny, tells us about the mountains around us on this lake.  She explains about the berries getting ready to ripen and the bears that could be about.  Someone calls out that they see a bear and the boat stops. It was a false alarm.  No bear sighted.

We reach the dock and disembark for our hike to Lake Grinnell at the end of the valley.  The walk is pretty level and there are lots of people.  We get to the split for our trail and the Grinnell Trail.  Everyone is gathered around.  An older gentleman explains that a bear just crossed the path a little further down.  It was a sow with two cubs.  Sorry, I’ve seen bears.  I find it best to avoid them.

We continue down our path because the bear has already crossed it and is headed in the other direction from us.  We are marching along at a pretty good clip.  My legs are getting tired.  Zane is keeping up with the guys at this point.  They have designated him as bear bait when he tries to get ahead of everyone.

We stop at the pit toilets before going on.  When I come out, Zerah and her crew has moved on.  Only Rich, Alex, and Joe are waiting.  We continue the enforced march.  We get to the suspension bridge over the river.  When we had done this hike back in 2008, the bridge was basically a log with ropes suspending it over the river.  This version was actually planks that gave you some width.

Rich went across first with success.  Alex went next and almost ran across.  This wasn’t good for stability and I thought for sure he was going into the river.  Joe went next and took measured steps without rushing.  He did very well.  Then it was my turn.  I attempted to follow Joe’s example, but had some trouble toward the end.  I did make it across without getting wet though.

We continued on to the lake.  At the shore, you could look up at the Feather Plume Falls and granite of the mountains surrounding you.  It was very beautiful and solemn.  Or it would have been if the kids, including Sean and Joe, were skipping rocks and enjoying the water.  What is it with boys and water?

Rich wanted to go to another beach a little further up.  This meant walking over some logs lying across the muddy expanse of a small stream.  The guys did pretty well.  Then it was my turn.  I managed to get across with help from Alex.  I had to give Rich a hard time that my brother-in-law helped me over the rough spots.  Rich did help get back over.

Then it was time to head back and try to catch the next boat out of here.  We had just missed the next boat and had a 30 minute walk back to the dock.  I got started since I figured it would take me a while.  Rich came along.  He was still sore from yesterday and wanted the extra time also.  We took some time to get pictures at the bridge and noticed a waterfall we hadn’t seen on the way out.

We arrived at the dock with only a few people there.  Soon, the crowd begins to grow and people were circulating around the dock in no order.  Our arrival for third in line soon became like fifth or so.  No worries though.  There was plenty of room on the next boat.

As we stood around and waiting, people were talking about their experiences on this side of the lake.  One couple had seen a moose on their hike.  They had gone in a different direction that most of us.  A couple of people were talking about the bear and her cubs.  There were different reports on what had actually happened.

The Morning Star returned and Jenny got us on board.  The trip back to the other shore was pretty quick, with no other bear sightings.  From there, it was another hike up the 80 foot hill to get back to Swiftcurrent Lake and the Chief Two Gun to take us to the lodge.  The views were beautiful and we were tired.

The return trip back to the house was uneventful.  The tired and dirty hikers gather our stuff and got into the house to collapse.  I started dinner so no one would starve.  It’s amazing how good any food tastes when you’ve been out in the wilderness all day.

I took a shower after dinner to find that the water was getting steadily colder.  Darn!  I really needed that hot shower.  After getting dressed, I went out to find our landlady to see if someone could check the hot water heater.  Sure enough, it had blown a fuse.  At least the others would have hot water though.

After that, we sat around the living room talking and just enjoying the company of Zureks.  Finally, it was time for bed.  But first, I had to write this blog before I forgot anything!

Tomorrow, Alex and Joe leave us to return to Seattle for a couple of days before flying home to Michigan.  Zerah and her family will be with us for another day before they return to Tacoma.  Then it’s just Rich and I in this house.  Wonder what fun we can have?  More hikes, I’m sure.

Many Glacier Lodge from the visitor's parking lot.
Many Glacier Lodge from the visitor’s parking lot.
Back of Many Glacier Lodge overlooking the lake.
Back of Many Glacier Lodge overlooking the lake.
Different levels inside of Many Glacier Lodge
Different levels inside of Many Glacier Lodge
Inside the lobby area of the lodge.
Inside the lobby area of the lodge.
Inside the lobby of Many Glacier Lodge
Inside the lobby of Many Glacier Lodge
Plaque for Swiftcurrent Lake and the mountains.
Plaque for Swiftcurrent Lake and the mountains.
Zane got his Junior Ranger badge.
Zane got his Junior Ranger badge.
Looking down Swiftcurrent Lake toward the glaciers.
Looking down Swiftcurrent Lake toward the glaciers.
Mount Grinnell
Mount Grinnell
Alex crossing the suspension bridge on Grinnell Lake trail.
Alex crossing the suspension bridge on Grinnell Lake trail.
Rich crossing the bridge.
Rich crossing the bridge.
Joe crossing the suspension bridge.
Joe crossing the suspension bridge.
Owen takes the easy way out.
Owen takes the easy way out.
Angle Wing and Mt Gould
Angle Wing and Mt Gould
Zerah watching over Owen.
Zerah watching over Owen.
Boys, water, and rocks.
Boys, water, and rocks.
Rich and Joy at Grinnell Lake.
Rich and Joy at Grinnell Lake.
Zureks on the beach at Grinnell Lake.
Zureks on the beach at Grinnell Lake.
Boardwalk for trail over the smaller streams.
Boardwalk for trail over the smaller streams.
Our ship has arrived at Lake Josephine dock.
Our ship has arrived at Lake Josephine dock.
Zane looking out the window of Chief Two Gun.
Zane looking out the window of Chief Two Gun.